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Wool is the most forgiving carpet to live with and the least forgiving to clean badly. It hides soil, bounces back from furniture and lasts decades, but harsh cleaners, too much water and heat all leave marks that do not come out.
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Guide · Updated 2026
Quick answer
Vacuum wool carpet weekly with suction (or a brush bar on its gentlest setting), treat spills at once by blotting with a white cloth and cool water, and use only wool-safe, near-neutral cleaners. Never use bleach, ammonia, peroxide, oxygen cleaners or strong alkaline sprays, and never soak it: over-wetting causes browning and shrinkage. Have it professionally cleaned every 12 to 18 months by someone who uses wool-safe chemistry and controlled moisture; hot water extraction done that way is safe for wool.
Wool fibre is protein with a scaly surface, like hair. That structure is why it holds dye beautifully, resists flattening and hides dirt, and it is also why it reacts to the wrong chemistry. Alkaline cleaners (most supermarket carpet sprays, ammonia, oxygen bleaches) swell and roughen the scales, leaving the pile dull, yellowed or felted. Heat and agitation on wet wool make the scales lock together, which is how a jumper shrinks in a hot wash and how a wool carpet ends up with a matted patch.
Underneath, most wool carpet has a jute or hessian backing. Soak that and the natural tannins in the jute wick up into the pile as it dries, leaving a brown tide-mark. This "cellulosic browning" is the most common damage from hired machines and over-enthusiastic home cleaning, and it is not the wool's fault.
| Use | Avoid |
|---|---|
| Cool water and a white cloth, blotting | Hot water, steam mops, hair dryers |
| A few drops of wool-safe detergent (woollens wash) in cool water | Supermarket carpet sprays unless labelled wool-safe; most are alkaline |
| A splash of white vinegar in water for a final rinse (helps keep the pH on wool's side) | Ammonia, bleach, hydrogen peroxide, oxygen cleaners |
| Dabbing from the outside of the spot inward | Rubbing, scrubbing brushes, over-wetting |
| A fan or open window to dry it fast | Leaving the spot damp overnight |
The sequence for any spill: blot, dab with cool water, blot, dab with the wool-safe solution, blot, rinse with a little vinegar-water, blot, then press a dry towel on it under a weight and get air moving. For blood, wine or pet urine on wool, follow the same cold, gentle approach and stop short of the stronger products those stains allow on synthetic carpet.
Yes, and it is what most wool carpet manufacturers specify for periodic deep cleaning, provided it is done the wool way: a wool-safe pre-spray close to neutral pH, less water than a synthetic carpet would get, thorough extraction so the backing never gets saturated, and fast drying. Done like that, hot water extraction rinses years of soil out of wool and leaves no residue. Done with a strong alkaline pre-spray and a flooded wand, it browns, shrinks and felts.
Low-moisture (dry) cleaning is the safer choice for wool that cannot be wet at all, such as some antique or hand-made pieces, and for light maintenance cleans between deep cleans. It does not flush out ground-in soil the way extraction does.
Hired supermarket machines are the riskiest option for wool: weak vacuum, hot water, and a general-purpose detergent. If you hire one anyway, use cool water, the wool-safe solution, half the detergent the instructions say, and dry the room with fans before evening.
Most wool carpet in a family home benefits from a professional clean every 12 to 18 months, sooner in hallways and living rooms with pets or kids. We clean wool across Adelaide with wool-safe chemistry and controlled moisture at the same published prices as any carpet: $45 per standard room, $65 per living area, $120 minimum booking. We check the fibre before we start and tell you if anything on it needs a different approach.
Rather have it done properly? We are an Adelaide-wide carpet cleaning service with published prices: get a free quote or call 0481 614 304, 7 days a week.
Tell us the rooms and what has happened to the carpet. We'll text or email you a straight answer, usually within the hour, 7 days a week.
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Upfront pricing
Most carpet cleaners make you ring around to find out. Here are our starting rates, in plain sight. A room is up to about 14 m²; bigger living areas are priced as a living area.
| Item | From |
|---|---|
| Bedroom or standard room (up to 14 m²) | $45 each |
| Lounge or open-plan living (over 14 m²) | $65 each |
| Hallway | $20 each |
| Stairs (per flight, up to 14 steps) | $45 each |
| End of lease package: 2-bed home 2 bedrooms + living + hallway, sanitise & deodorise, dated receipt | $169 |
| End of lease package: 3-bed home 3 bedrooms + living + hallway, sanitise & deodorise, dated receipt | $209 |
| End of lease package: 4-bed home 4 bedrooms + living + hallway, sanitise & deodorise, dated receipt | $249 |
| Commercial / office carpet Quoted on floor area, minimum $180 | $3.50 per m² |
| Pet urine & odour treatment (enzyme) | +$40 per affected room |
| Heavy stain treatment | +$30 per stain area |
| Scotchgard carpet protection | +$35 per room |
| Sanitise & deodorise | +$15 per room |
Prices are starting rates for carpet in normal condition. Final quote confirmed on inspection, before we start. No hidden fees. Minimum booking $120. Heavily soiled carpet and furniture moving are quoted up front.
Common questions
Yes. Hot water extraction is what most wool manufacturers recommend for deep cleaning, as long as it uses wool-safe, near-neutral chemistry, less water and fast drying. Harsh alkaline pre-sprays and over-wetting are what damage wool, not the method.
Over-wetting. When the jute backing gets soaked, its natural tannins wick up into the pile as it dries and leave a brown tide-mark. It can often be corrected with an acidic rinse by a professional, and avoided by using less water and drying fast.
A wool-safe detergent (the kind sold for washing woollens) diluted in cool water, used sparingly and rinsed. Avoid bleach, ammonia, peroxide, oxygen cleaners and most supermarket carpet sprays, which are alkaline.
Yes, for the first few months after installation. Loose fibre left from manufacturing works its way out with vacuuming. It is not a defect and it stops.
Every 12 to 18 months in a typical home, more often in hallways and rooms with pets. Regular vacuuming between cleans matters more for wool than for synthetics because grit wears the fibre.
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